Embarking on a new journey at the age of 13, I transitioned from a beach-averse individual to an avid surfer, defying my prior disinterest in aquatic pursuits. Prompted by the early teen allure of a “cool” pastime, I acquired an old shortboard from a friend and initiated a self-taught surfing odyssey, relying solely on YouTube tutorials for guidance.
The initial hurdles proved challenging, but with unwavering determination and numerous beach excursions facilitated by my mom, I rapidly honed my surfing skills. What started as a casual pursuit soon became a powerful emotional outlet during my teenage years, serving as a therapeutic means to “reset” in the face of stress. Surfing evolved into a ritual, a bi-weekly communion with the waves whenever a swell beckoned.
My journey wasn’t without its share of intense moments, especially when confronted with sizable swells. Yet, it was precisely these adrenaline-charged encounters that fueled my passion—moments when it was just me confronting the formidable ocean, necessitating the control of fear for the sake of my own well-being. These challenges forged a profound connection between me and the great unpredictable beauty of the ocean.